• About
  • Gallery
  • Blog
  • Store
  • Ship
  • Links
  • Contact
Menu

WHITE GLOVE FANS

Enriching the Beauty of Antique Electric Fans
.

enriching the beauty of antique electric fans

WHITE GLOVE FANS

  • About
  • Gallery
    • 1911 Jandus C-Frame
    • 1912 Century S4 Sidegear
    • 1908 R&M Lollipop Fan
    • 1904 Peerless Kick Start
    • 1909 Westinghouse Vane Fan
    • 1924 GE Brass Bell
    • 1912 Menominee Staghorn
    • 1904 GE Pancake
    • 1912 Fidelity Oscillator
    • 1911 GE Kidney
    • 1915 GE Three-Star
    • 1912 GE All Brass
    • 1932 GE 8" Oscillator
    • 1909 Hawthorn Vane
    • 1914 GE Small Motor Yoke
  • Blog
  • Store
  • Ship
  • Links
  • Contact

How to Install a New Oil Wick

September 17, 2013 Josh Backens
IMG_0289.JPG

Have you had issues installing a new wick? It seems to be the most simplest of tasks but can be a pain from time to time. I will explain the easiest way to accomplish this task without headache. The first way is most common, but the second way is one I personally thought of when trying to install a slightly oversized wick in an original oil cup spring for a 1900 pancake fan.

First Method: Threading the wick into the spring

This may sound easy, but may require some skill. Those of us who have worked on fans for many years can do this like clockwork, but for the newcomer, it could be a small roadblock. Here’s what we do to screw it in: Take the wick and oil it on its end slightly to keep the end moist, keeping separation of the wick to a minimum. Use the righty tighty method and simply thread the wick into the spring. Keeping sure that the wick will not cause too much resistance to the rotor shaft; only screw in enough for it to exit the oil cup plus 1/8” for a starting point. Install the oil cup. Using a flashlight, look down the shaft bearing to see if the wick is flush with the bearing, barely touching the rotor shaft. It actually doesn’t need to touch the shaft at all. The wicking motion will allow enough oil to enter the shaft as there is nowhere else for it to go in that small space. More importantly, ensure the wick isn’t causing resistance to the shaft!! This may cause more load and resistance resulting in a less efficient running motor thus creating more heat.

Second Method: Using a pair of scissors

With bigger wicks that cannot screw into the normal spring, I use this method. I’m not saying that I’m using wicks that are too big for the bearing, I’m simply referring to tightly wound springs that are too tight for the correct size wick to fit. With that being said, this method works very easily whether it will screw in or not. Simply take a pair of scissors and taper the end of the wick, only using about ½” taper. Then, simply push the wick through the tight hole on the spring until you can grab it. Then, pull slightly and you screw it in. There you have it, a new wick into a tightly wound spring. Cut the end of the taper off and adjust the length as previously discussed.

Using scissors cut an angle in the wick's end

Using scissors cut an angle in the wick's end

Thread this end into the spring with a twisting motion

Thread this end into the spring with a twisting motion

After inserting the wick, cut the end to the appropriate length

After inserting the wick, cut the end to the appropriate length

In How To
← Grinding and Filling to Achieve a Perfect FinishHow to Remove a Stator from a Stamped Steel Fan →

Enter your email address below to receive email notifications of new blog entries:

Delivered by FeedBurner

White Glove FANS blog

The blogs at White Glove Fans are designed to let you know what projects we are working on, what projects we have finished, as well as to discuss general fan topics: whether its restoration techniques, our latest find at the flea market, or the history of fans.

Please read through our blog entries and feel free to reply to our authors by using the comments section below the blog content. Have a question about the blog? Just ask us, we're happy to engage with our readers.  

 

Blog RSS